Southern California Club Xterra
Southern California Club Xterra => SCCX General Discussion => Topic started by: Grimx on May 01, 2015, 06:35:21 PM
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I'll be looking into upgrading to a gen 2 in the next month or so. Any years I should avoid looking at or certain packages to steer away from. Been looking at mostly 2012 and up. Any known problems I should look for and any other info on purchasing gen 2 would be great
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We'll wait for the REAL experts to chime in, but I've been very happy with my 2010. My understanding is that 2009 is the year they fixed the SMOD issues with the radiator, which is probably the biggest thing to look out for.
I do wish I had purchased an Off Road or Pro 4X instead of the S level, because I wish I at least had the E-locker. The proper gearing on the Pro 4X would also make a Titan swap much cheaper, which I'm hoping to one day do.
That being said, I don't have any major regrets. Just makes it harder to go "full retard" with the mods and wheeling without spending an even larger fortune. :)
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So the pro-4x and off road have e lockers?
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word
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Doesn't look like a lot of pro-4x's for sale.
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They're not easy to find used.. I got the 2013 S, and I'll build from there, She has been more places than I'd imagined it would go.
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So the pro-4x and off road have e lockers?
E-lockers and decent control come standard with them.
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So the pro-4x and off road have e lockers?
The Pro4x comes with a rear e-locker standard as well as the hill descent control. It also has the 3.36 gear ratio which matches with one of the Nissan Titan's ratio's which makes doing the Titan Swap much easier!
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Do the pro-4x's only come in manual. Seems like the only used ones I can find are manual.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/02/fa1d5de5fe9fa32553bf07f06d13590c.jpg) found this one, asking 25k.
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Lol I should close my Facebook chat bubbles before screenshoting
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2010 or newer is better.
Hard part, as you've discovered, is finding one for the right price. With the discontinuation of the X, I'm afraid (for buyers) values will increase and the market will demand supply.
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Asking 25k with only 21k miles sound about right?
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Asking 25k with only 21k miles sound about right?
I paid a lot less than that, but the Pro 4X does cost quite a bit more than the S. Once I decided I wanted an Xterra, I shopped around and spent a good deal of time before I found a great deal. I bought mine as a "certified used" from Torre Nissan in La Qunta. I negotiated back and forth via email for a few days, because I told them I was only making the 160 mile round-trip drive one time and I wasn't afraid to leave the dealership in my old car if they tried to change things up on me.
I bought it just about a year ago and it's a 2010, so it was 4 years old, with about 34,000 miles on it. In great shape with only one original owner (who always serviced it at the dealership, per the CarFax report), but it did spend it's whole life out there in the desert so the steering wheel had some sun damage and the plastics on the exterior were sun faded.
They were asking $19,900. In the end, I got them down to $18,000 including a 7 year, 100,000 warranty. They also gave me a good value for my trade, which they hadn't even seen. I was pleased with the dealership and would do business with them again.
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Yeah 25k is just out of what I want to spend, might have offered 20-21 if I was ready right now.
I'll have to check them out. That's not too far from me. Did you mostly dealer hop or surf the interwebs?
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Yeah, I think you can do better than that price. I got my 2007 'Off Road' in 2011 for $17,000 with a manual trany (which I prefer) and 40K miles. Private party, no warranty and very clean. But I flew to Idaho to get it and drove it home. No regrets. Keep looking, go P.P.(save $1,000 on taxes) and be prepared to make a drive. Good luck!
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Yeah 25k is just out of what I want to spend, might have offered 20-21 if I was ready right now.
I'll have to check them out. That's not too far from me. Did you mostly dealer hop or surf the interwebs?
I surfed the web. Craigslist, AutoTrader and other sites. The one I found was through AutoTrader. The dealer had posted the ad for it like a day or two earlier. I guess it had been on their lot for a while, so they dumped the price and put the ad out, knowing it would sell fast.
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Welp it's like looking for my 04 4x4 all over again 6 years ago. Makes it that much better when I find the one.
Can any one give me a quick price comparison for for a titan swap on a PRO-4X vs Off road, To see if I should factor this in my decision of maybe considering the offroad also if it's not too big of a difference.
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Any particular reason you don't want to upgrade your Gen1? If you want to wheel and your Gen 1 is paid off, you can get a lot more performance on trail if you do an SAS and lock it up. And it will cost you a lot less money.
I remember you were interested in doing an SAS before and that you want your X to be your daily.
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Well to be honest I would love to do that. But sadly my parents would disown me if they saw me do that to my high school Grad present and would rather see it sold lol. 😳 😄
I would also like a more up to date daily personally.
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Asking 25k with only 21k miles sound about right?
For a PRO-4X that sounds about right...unfortunately. It seems like a lot, until you look at what other vehicles in this class bring price wise.
I was shocked when we were looking at brand new Tacos...$38-41K out the door for a 4x4 TRD Double Cab...and the used second gens. weren't much better.
The good news is that much like the yotas, the PRO-4X's and later Off Road models hold their value.
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Quick question on titan swap. The automatic pro4x is the only one with the Correct gearing for titan swap. Not the manual? Or off road?
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Correct.
3.36 is what your looking for.
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So if I were to get an offroad, I would have to swap the front AND back or just front gears for titan swap. The "how to titan swap" kinda confused me when it said something about changing the back out also
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If you get an Auto OR it will come in 3.36.
There is a Titan front diff that also comes in 3.36. Sourcing this front diff will match the OR rear diff and will not require a change in rear gearing.
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The offroad(05-10)model and pro4x(11-15) are the same specs just different years.
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Gotcha just changed the names. basically look for autos?
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Also...the PRO-4X and the Off Road models come with the M226 rear diff, which is geared in 3.36 as others have stated, but the critical factor is fitting 4.10 gears (inside the M226 pumpkin, C200K won't worky for 4.10's) when you go "full" TS with the M205 diff in the front AND re-gear to 4.10 to run larger (ie: 35's) tires.
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A lot more to this swap than I thought 😱
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Also....don't forget extended brake lines. Also be prepared to look at extending your ABS lines, as they get pretty tight.
After the PRG Advanced 4WD lift, the Titan Swap was easily the best suspension upgrade on the X.
IMHO...I would avoid the R180/extended half shaft route, unless you have the half shafts professionally built. They can be built DIY, but it is seriously messy and tedious. With as much abuse as they take off road (check Terry's build thread) having them neatly assembled provides extra peace of mind.
Take your time, and you won't regret pulling the trigger.
Sent from Planet Claire
using Tapatalk
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So the m205 is not NEEDED to do a titan swap. I can get it later when I have the cash for that kinda thing?
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So the m205 is not NEEDED to do a titan swap. I can get it later when I have the cash for that kinda thing?
Correct. However, if you go the R180/extended half axle route, you will need to source new half axles, or assemble your own.
PRG offers the extended half axles (no CV's) for about $400...then you need to add your stock inner and outer CV's on your own.
Or, go the Nisstec route, providing your stock half axle cores and they build you a set, about $700.
A brand new M205 is about $1,100, and Cardone half axles usually run around $60 each.
IMHO...don't buy a used Titan Swap, which is the route I took. Sourcing new parts for this critical install would be my recommended route. The 2.5 Radflo's that I got used ended up being blown, resulting in an additional $210 rebuild from Radflo, plus the 4 day down time off the truck. Also, the homebuilt half axles were never quite right, so having those built/sourced professionally the first time will save you a bucket of time and frustration.
Out back, you will need a good set of leaf springs and extended shocks. I used Alcans from Nisstec, and a set of extended Bilsteins from Off Road Warehouse locally. Or, you could just source both from Nisstec and kill that shipping bird with one stone.
I also used PRG extended shackles with the Alcan leafs, which were a 4" arch/lift and a 450lb. spring rate. Again, hindsight is 20/20, but the one thing I would add to the mix of rear end suspension is the oft spoken/installed Timbren bump stop upgrade. These easily install on top of your upgraded leaf springs, and will make your ride off road much smoother with the stiffer, but more flexy leaf springs.
So, a quick check list:
M205 route:
M205 - $1,100 new, $600-$700 used
Cardone half axles - $120
R180 route:
PRG extended half axles, DIY - $400
Nisstec extended half axles, DIFM - $700
Titan Swap General:
2.5" Coilovers - $800 used, $1,200 new
Titan Upper Control Arms - $700 new
Titan Lower Control Arms - $250 new
Extended brake lines, front/rear - $180 new (don't buy used brake lines :D )
Brake fluid for bleed - $7.50
Alcan or similar rear leaf springs - $750/$800
3-4* leaf/axle shims - $40 (this sets the drive line/pinion angle for the lift)
Rear spring U-bolts - $40
Rear wheel spacers to match front width - $100
Misc. hardware - $100
Am I missing anything?
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Am I missing anything?
How about the steering/tie rod stuff? Or are you including that under your "misc hardware" portion? Also the price of the timbrens. You suggested them but didn't include them in your caluclations. What's that, about another $400 total for fronts and rears?
Also, for the OP - if you have a non OR or Pro-4X model and you choose the M205 route (where you put the Titan front differential in, rather than just the Titan suspension with modified half axles to run with the Xterra front diff), you'll need to re-gear or replace the rear differential IN ADDITION to everything listed above. At a bare minimum, you're looking at at least $2k for that work. This is why, if you're ultimate goal is to titan swap, the OR or Pro-4X is usually a better option (although some would argue that the increased price of the Pro-4X is less effecient than just doing the rear end work or swapping out the rear end on a non Pro-4X model, especially if you're looking at a difference of $3K or $4K on the vehicle itself).
Additionally, most people choose to add an air locker to the front and or rear end at the same time all of this work is being performed, to cut down on the labor costs. This can add another $3k to the project if you do both
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Tie rod ends through PRG - $50
Yes, yes...the cost to re-gear a c200K from 3.13 to 3.36, IF you don't have the M226...I almost forgot...or was it selective memory? ;)
My locker install/re-gear/master axle rear end rebuild (seals, bearings, poop chute stretch) was just over $3K...for parts, labor, and a six pack of really good beer to quaff when I was done.
Not a cheap endeavor going from this:
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae195/DzrtX/The%20GhostX/Xterra2.jpg) (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/DzrtX/media/The%20GhostX/Xterra2.jpg.html)
To this:
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae195/DzrtX/Titan%20Swap%20Day%20-%20GhostX/DSC_0021.jpg) (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/DzrtX/media/Titan%20Swap%20Day%20-%20GhostX/DSC_0021.jpg.html)
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Price break down was exactly what I was looking for. I can find low mileage s trim all day for much cheaper then low mileage pro/OF. So I'm trying to figure out if I should just say F it and make the search easier for me and spend what I saved on building it up to a pro/OF. Or spend the extra and save some stress later on down the road
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Feel like taking a trip to NJ? This one won't last long:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?ownerId=69740187&searchRadius=0&listingId=395820554
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One note on steering, if your tie rods are worn or have a bunch of miles, skip the tie rod extensions and go for titan tierods. You need 2 of the titan inners, and a titan L and R outer. Moog is a good brand and is available from rockauto.
Also if sourcing a m205, stick with the 08+ m205 that has 3 ribs on the outside of the case, early m205 were known to be weaker. If the year is unknown, look for the 3 ribs on the case.
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This one is CLEAN - an 07 with only 16K original miles on it. Plus the seller has already added bumpers, a winch and quite a bit of other cool stuff. Might be worth the trip to Portland (hey, it's closer than RBDuffer went for his, right?!):
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=156233
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why so many floor mats?
(http://www.daxsys.net/ccg/xterra/11.jpg)
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why so many floor mats?
??? Twice the protection? Maybe he likes the all weather ones but doesn't like slipping around on them when his feet are wet? I thought that was a little strange too.
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Yea, according to toyota, multiple floormats kills people, maybe that's why they are selling?
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I wish unwashed ready to buy now! About 3 more weeks
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Well if this guy still has his in 3 weeks, he might even knock the price down a little lower for 'ya. :)
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I found a guy selling his upper and lower control arms of a 2005 titan for $150 for the lot. Should I jump on this?
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Have you purchased the Gen 2 yet?
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I have not. Few more weeks till the real hunt but I figure if there's a good deal on parts for my future rig, might as well jump on it. Unless the arms are year specific. . . Then I'll wait. That detail in the titan swap info was left out.
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Got him down to 100 for the lot. Waiting on you guys to let me know if titan swap is year specific.
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Anything after 2005 you should be fine.
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Titan parts after 2004 will fit our rigs. I am not Titan swapped, but I've been told that OE UCA make it difficult to align the rig.
Can anyone confirm this?
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After 2005, woody? So 2005 won't work or will? Even then, would 100 be a good price for just the lowers?
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Titan parts after 2004 will fit our rigs. I am not Titan swapped, but I've been told that OE UCA make it difficult to align the rig.
Can anyone confirm this?
I heard the same thing, from what i understand they are a little shorter than the PRGs so the cam bolt would have to be push all the way out to even get close. $100 for the set, it might be worth the test. I paid $75 for the just lowers.
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I'll see if he'll do 75 for just the LCAs. After some Googling sounds like the PRG UCAs are worth the extra coin in all ways
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Or possibly 50. Asked if he'd seperate the uppers and lowers. Didn't throw a price out
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fwiw, you will still have problems with coil bucket contact with stock titan UCA, not as much as the stock xterra UCA but still possible. aftermarket is the way to go
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He said he'll do 75 for the lowers.
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ctd/5044974882.html
what do you guys think? Was going to throw out 19k out the door to see if he'll do 20k which is the limit I set myself. Thoughts, opinions, advise?
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That is not a Pro-4X. It's an S 4x4. The wheels are wrong, it doesn't have the roof lights, and it has the same seats I just pulled out of my rig. You can also see on the photos of the interior that it has the open pocket next to the 4x4 switch, instead of the buttons for the hill start assist and e-locker. As previously stated by a few members, you can't really trust what the dealerships say about the trim levels. There is a guy in my neighborhood who swears up and down that his 2006 Xterra has the "Nismo Offroad Package." He bought it from a dealership in the Midwest brand new, and they slapped a "Nismo" sticker on the airdam (which isn't even the correct font and seriously looks like it was just made at the swap meet), a brush guard and a pair of cheap aftermarket driving lights on the brush guard. I'm sure they marked it up at least $6 or $7k on him, too.
I paid $17,500 for my S 4x4 which was 2 years older than this one at the time of purchase, but also only had 33k miles. So pricing is more or less in line with the going rate (if you can get it for $19,500 or $20,000), but it's not what you're looking for.
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Gahh! thanks for the heads up. Glad I posted on here before wasting gas to go out there and check it out to find that out. What year did they start putting the lights on top for the pro-4x?
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I believe they started installing the roof lights with the 2009 and newer, which is also when they re-designed the look of the grill and front bumper. I believe they called the trim level the "Off Road" through 2010 and began calling it the "Pro-4X" in 2011.
So if I'm correct, an 05-08 "Off-Road" will not have the roof lights, an 09-10 "Off-Road" will have roof lights, and an 11-15 "Pro-4X" will have roof lights.
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Cool thanks again! Probably settle for an S still. I saw that a pro-4x was near by and was going to jump on it if legit
Turned out it wasn't :/
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If you're willing to purchase an S, I'd hit that seller up and see if they'll come down a couple of thousand dollars on their price. It's doubtful, because they paid what they paid and they want to make what they want to make off of it, but they have it falsely listed as the wrong trim level, which makes a significant difference in the blue book value.
According to KBB.com, a "fair" purchase price for that exact vehicle (same trim, drivetrain and options, best I can tell from the photos and listing) from a dealer is $20,640 (the range is $18,500 through $22,700, depending on the condition). It looks like a very clean and well cared for Xterra with about 15% higher than average mileage for the age (which isn't uncommon for vehicles in the Inland Empire, since everyone commutes). That being said, the Pro-4X they have it listed as would have a "fair" price of $21,863 from a dealership ($19,700 through $24,000, depending on condition). It seems like they have it priced correctly for an S 4x4, but you could always use the error as a bargaining chip and try. I'd offer them $18,500 since it's an S trim level and see if they play ball. You'll probably end up somewhere between $19,000 and $20,000 if you play your cards right, which is not a bad price. Those small dealerships are always itching to sell cars, so let them know you're very interested but have a tight budget to work with, and that you won't pay a Pro-4X price for an S.
Even better, if you've really got a big pair and want to try your luck, email them a few times asking about their "Pro-4X Xterra for sale" and be sure to be excited that it's a Pro-4X. Drive all the way down there to test drive it and throw a fit when you get there because it's not really a Pro-4X and they "wasted your time." That could score you a nice discount. :)
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Here's another one that's worth looking at in the same price range:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=92833&endYear=2016&vehicleStyleCodes=AWD4WD&modelCode1=XTERRA&showcaseOwnerId=69362583&startYear=1981&makeCode1=NISSAN&searchRadius=10&showcaseListingId=401364779&mmt=%5BNISSAN%5BXTERRA%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&listingId=403640151&Log=0
Since it's a "real" dealership, they'll probably be a lot easier to work with and you might even be able to negotiate a good deal for your trade. CarMax is also another good option for your trade. Take your car over there and they'll give you a no-hassle, no-haggle quote to buy it from you (even if you're not interested in buying a car from them). That will give you a much better understanding of what to expect to get for it, and you can use that as a bargaining chip with any dealership that you're trading in at.
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Before my rig fell in my lap, I searched AutoTrader, dealerships and even craigslist digging for that perfect deal
CarGurus was one site that I stumbled upon that really helped me out...
Here's a list within 100mi of me (92672) of used Xterras
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d253&zip=92672
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I bought my 2013 S with 17,000 miles from Hertz
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http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?shopperListingsSearch=10875150#listing=115929891
This is a little in the high mileage for me but the price is so tempting
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So I bought a 2013 today. Waiting to get off work and drive it around a bit. they were nice enough to deliver it to my house because I had to jet for work before it was ready. Woo! Joined all you 2nd gen's!!
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Congrats! Give us the details. Trim level? Color? Milage? ;D
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So I bought a 2013 today. Waiting to get off work and drive it around a bit. they were nice enough to deliver it to my house because I had to jet for work before it was ready. Woo! Joined all you 2nd gen's!!
Congrats man....I did the 1st gen to 2nd gen upgrade and couldn't be happier!!!
POST MOAR PIXORZ!!!!
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So I bought a 2013 today. Waiting to get off work and drive it around a bit. they were nice enough to deliver it to my house because I had to jet for work before it was ready. Woo! Joined all you 2nd gen's!!
Congratulations on the new Rig
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2013 knight armor 58k miles. :) quick question, can I hook up my external sub and amp to the factory head unit?
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I'll throw a pic up later. Still driven the 1st gen since insurance is lagging
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Congrats Max