Southern California Club Xterra
Southern California Club Xterra => SCCX General Discussion => Topic started by: xxSVxx on May 10, 2013, 09:59:08 AM
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Heyoooo!!!
Ok guys and gals....please chime in on what you think/what your experience has been...
I'm looking to lift my rig a little....say, 2-3in......I'd like her to be just a bit taller for a little more articulation and also more clearance for when I get new tires, I'm moving up a size from 265 to 285 when my current shoes run out
Now, I will have new UCA's in my possession next week <Total Chaos>, and I have the Bil's 5100's up front, and I have Ghost's rear Bils still in the box for the rear-end..
I'm looking at two different lifts...
PRG- http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product/prg-2xe31mk-x/
NISSTEC- http://nissteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=58955&category_id=173&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72
**PLEASE DO NOT GET INTO THE WHOLE PRG VS. NISSTEC DEBATE....THAT'S WHY THIS IS POSTED HERE ON SCCX RATHER THAN TNX....**
Anyway....names aside, is there a difference between the two? One that looks/feels/works better than the other? Anyone rocking one or the other and have any tips/thoughts? Any materials I might need on top of what it comes with?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice!!! :)
(p.s. feel free to move this to another forum if so desired)
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Doing UCA dont forget the bolt if you are going to cut it out. If you buy it from a dealership its 15 right away.
Plus CAM bolts will be required with a lift. If you do not already have them.
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If articulations what your after, spacers won't help that up front. You'll have the same travel just moved down in the range of available wheel travel, less stuffage.
I know you have aftermarket wheels that stick out further than stock, how close are the current tires to the fender when turned? The 285 will be a half inch closer in a perfect world, in the real world it will depend on the tire you end up going with. The lift won't really help with clearance of tires, cutting does :-) it will look badass though.
What do you currently have? 5100 up front and shackles rear? Whats your ideal amount of lift total front and rear? What are the 5100's set to lift wise? Too lazy to look at your "build" thread :-P I ask because my experience with them was they ride harsh when set 1.5" or higher. Might I suggest a 3" spacer would allow you to run 1" lower setting on the bils for a better ride.
Also best way to improve front end articulation is to disconnect your front swaybar on one side when you wheel. Takes 2 mins, easy to do while airing down.
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Also best way to improve front end articulation is to disconnect your front swaybar on one side when you wheel. Takes 2 mins, easy to do while airing down.
That's a really good idea Jordan!! The more articulation, the better.
Have you done this before?
Is there a lot of rattling when you disconnect the sway bar on one side?
Is the loose sway pretty stable, or do you run the risk of catching it on something?
Thanks for the tip
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Sorry to hear about that debate. They all work the same. Calmini also has great products, just not great customer service. It should always come down to personal preferance and budget. For most of the trails we do, you don't need a whole lot of articulation. Personally, I have never had to disconnect the front sway bar. Do ditch the rear one though.
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Disconnecting one side keeps the sway bar under control so it wont go anywhere and the ride is night and day difference. Much better ride. I've noticed my truck handles bumps and off camber stuff much better.
Fwiw I noticed the same effect on my first gen, and while not needed, its free and takes 5 mins and allows the suspension to work independently.
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Disconnecting one side keeps the sway bar under control so it wont go anywhere and the ride is night and day difference. Much better ride. I've noticed my truck handles bumps and off camber stuff much better.
Fwiw I noticed the same effect on my first gen, and while not needed, its free and takes 5 mins and allows the suspension to work independently.
Sent using Al Gore's internet
I'll definitely try it the next time we do a heavier trail.
Thanks
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If articulations what your after, spacers won't help that up front. You'll have the same travel just moved down in the range of available wheel travel, less stuffage.
I know you have aftermarket wheels that stick out further than stock, how close are the current tires to the fender when turned? The 285 will be a half inch closer in a perfect world, in the real world it will depend on the tire you end up going with. The lift won't really help with clearance of tires, cutting does :-) it will look badass though.
What do you currently have? 5100 up front and shackles rear? Whats your ideal amount of lift total front and rear? What are the 5100's set to lift wise? Too lazy to look at your "build" thread :-P I ask because my experience with them was they ride harsh when set 1.5" or higher. Might I suggest a 3" spacer would allow you to run 1" lower setting on the bils for a better ride.
Also best way to improve front end articulation is to disconnect your front swaybar on one side when you wheel. Takes 2 mins, easy to do while airing down.
Sent using Al Gore's internet
I have no true 'lift' right now; the only real lift my truck has is due to the Bils being maxed out; maybe that's what I'll do is get the 3in spacers and then be able to allow the shocks to absorb better...
I get plenty of rubbing pulling into parking spots, driveway, etc....so the melt mod is high on my list....
I have 5100's up front....don't think I have any 'lift' per-se in the rear....
Doing UCA dont forget the bolt if you are going to cut it out. If you buy it from a dealership its 15 right away.
Plus CAM bolts will be required with a lift. If you do not already have them.
Is this with ANY UCA? I have all new bushings (I was told I'd need them), but new CAM bolts?....
I'm down to try the sway bar trick as well...thanks for the tip Jordan and lemme know when you wanna put that bumper on....I'm happy to help!
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Bumper!?!? What did you get Jordan?
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Ray, I ordered a hefty zombie edition. 9 to 12 weeks.
So you have the 5100 maxed out at 2.5" ? Thats more than likely compensating for the weight of the front bumper than providing actual lift, and a harsh ride to boot. I would honestly save your dollas up and get some radflos or an emu setup, with how you drive you would appreciate them. ;-) your nickname from Mojave is Christian "Ironman" Stewart err Sorensen.
if you want 3" of lift in the back, an aal and shackles should work out for you.
If you already rub with those wheels and 32" tires, cutting the pinch weld behind the fender liner might be required. Pretty easy and quick with a grinder/sawzall.
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The UCA bolt is not realy an issue, loosening the steering to allow removal of the bolt is not that hard. And if you have camber bolts you don't need new ones, but only 05 xterras came from the factory with ones and if you truck never had an alignment issue then you might not have them. Easy way to check is to look at the lower control arm bolts and look at the washers, if they are offset then you have camber bolts, if they are centered then you will most likely need camber bolts. New UCA will come with new bushings so that's not an issue.
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If I remember correctly, there was a Night Armor PRO 4X hanging with me on Soda Lake ;)
And I now have to price out shackles and AAL.....and new Radflo's.... ;D :D :D ;D ;D ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Disconnecting one side keeps the sway bar under control so it wont go anywhere and the ride is night and day difference. Much better ride. I've noticed my truck handles bumps and off camber stuff much better.
Fwiw I noticed the same effect on my first gen, and while not needed, its free and takes 5 mins and allows the suspension to work independently.
Sent using Al Gore's internet
someday with your front swaybar disconnected your going to hit something and bend the sh!t out of the sway bar.
then it wont go back on right and it will be a bi!tch to get off because it's bent.
do or do not.
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Ray, I ordered a hefty zombie edition. 9 to 12 weeks.
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NICE!!!! That bumper is SICK
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Greg at PRG is working on a cable activated sway bar disconnect that appears to mount in the middle of the sway bar. Not really sure how well it's going to work but I would imagine that Greg will get it right before it goes on the market. If you're on FB, he put up a photo of it a while back...
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Yea sway bar damage is always an issue, but I like my sway bar on road and drive my Xterra to work on freeways so I choose to keep it on and disconnect it when I of road. I've thought about cutting the bar in the middle and sleeving it with pins but with skids that doesn't sound like fun to disconnect.
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There also happens to be a set of 2.5" radflos for $900 on thenewx :-)
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finally on my computer, looked at the nisstec link because it wasnt clickable on my phone :D, dont get in coil spacers, they basically do the same thing that the 5100 you already have do, they preload the spring to give lift/horrible ride. you want spacers that go on top of the coilover assembly(use bolts) like the prg ones, if your still set on spacers.
also just looked at your "build" page, with that bumper/winch you totally need coilovers. get rid of those bandaid 5100's :D
oh yea, if you order from prg, make sure to call him. his prices include shipping, and since we are close he will give you a discount. i saved a couple hundred by calling him
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yeah, I saw the Radflo's go up on TNX a week or so ago....surprised they haven't sold yet....but honestly, if I'm dropping $900 on 2.5's, I might as well get brand new ones rather than used from some guy....
Yeah....I figured I'd end up with 2.5's since they're also TS compatible....but I thought there would be a couple of steps between now and then...
Jeeez....now I'm gonna have to go sell myself on the street corner again....
;)
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Any suspension is compatible with the titan swap, just need a little more spring rate to go with the longer arms.
And why not do it once and be done
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