Southern California Club Xterra
Southern California Club Xterra => SCCX General Discussion => Topic started by: Pro4X-Gremlin on September 24, 2012, 08:44:49 PM
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Currently working on the rock sliders...hoping to have soon.
Now looking for opinions re: skids
aluminum vs. steel
Anyone have/or had aluminum? any regrets? pros/cons?
just taking things in stride here. Thanks
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aluminum are nice and light, but prices are outrageous. i think steel takes more of a beating and resists gouging better than aluminum.
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You have to consider a slider that can take the entire weight of the rig perched on a rock two inches from your quarter panel and WITH NO FLEX. That is the whole problem with step rails. All the damage is done when they bend and are pushed up into the body.
I don't think that aluminum can provide the rigidity to be used as sliders.
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The strength of steel vs the price is a better value for steel. But the downside is steel is much heavier.
For sliders, definitely steel. For skids, probably depends how much you plan to use them, steel is a lot more rugged. If they will get constant abuse, I just don't think aluminum would hold up well. If they aren't going to get much use but you want light weight, aluminum should be ok, or maybe looking at being creative and having plastic(Like cutting board material) skids made. Only catch is they would need some kinds of steel support structure, using plastic as the sliding wear surface(can't be bent and welded like metal, so would need a support that makes the bottom of the x flat).
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With the weight of an Xterra, you want steel skid plates and armor in general. 3/16" is the common thickness.
I have bent steel skids (most notably my radiator skid) and had they been aluminium, the damage would have been much worse.
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Go with steel. You don't want to risk damaging critical underbody parts. Steel is reliable and trail proven.
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Sorry guyz. I should've clarified. My bad. I meant the sliders are to be custom made locally. They are currently a work in progress. I am hoping to have them soon. And, yes, those are steel. My inquiry was focused on the skids. That will be my next investment. I only mentioned aluminum because we were at the Land Rover shop and someone who works there mentioned how so many more people were going with aluminum skids. But, then, those may be the people who drive their LR's and not actually take them off-road...???...who knows...anyhow, my original idea was to go with steel, powder coated skids. I am thinking I should stick with my original idea. And no, the LR shop is not servicing my truck.
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But, then, those may be the people who drive their LR's and not actually take them off-road...???...who knows...anyhow, my original idea was to go with steel, powder coated skids. I am thinking I should stick with my original idea.
Good idea ;)
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... my original idea was to go with steel, powder coated skids.
Powder coated skids? I think mine are plain steel. I have Calmini skids and if they were powder coated, the powder coating would be flaking off and the metal would be rusting just like my front Calmini bumper. ::)
Looking at that picture, it reminds me that I need to do something about the U bolts on each side of the rear diff to keep them from catching on a rock. Maybe shorten the length of the bolts. That must be an old picture because I'm sure I must have more gouges and scrapes than that now. ;D
ETA: This is what I found on Calmini's website regarding the finish: "Our rear axle skid fully protects the differential housing unit and axle tube from damage. Formed from 3/16" laser cut steel, it's angular design absorbs impacts while retaining it's shape! It's indestructible! Finished in a durable zinc plate, the skid is fully bolt-on with no drilling required to install."
(http://sccx.smugmug.com/photos/i-SHtCVFH/0/X2/i-SHtCVFH-X2.jpg)
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Powder coated skids? I think mine are plain steel. I have Calmini skids and if they were powder coated, the powder coating would be flaking off and the metal would be rusting just like my front Calmini bumper. ::)
Looking at that picture, it reminds me that I need to do something about the U bolts on each side of the rear diff to keep them from catching on a rock. Maybe shorten the length of the bolts. That must be an old picture because I'm sure I must have more gouges and scrapes than that now. ;D
ETA: This is what I found on Calmini's website regarding the finish: "Our rear axle skid fully protects the differential housing unit and axle tube from damage. Formed from 3/16" laser cut steel, it's angular design absorbs impacts while retaining it's shape! It's indestructible! Finished in a durable zinc plate, the skid is fully bolt-on with no drilling required to install."
Hey Marshann,
As rigged as your X is, we better see you on, at least, blue runs at CANVAZ. ;)
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okay, here's what my mind was thinking...and I could be way base...my vehicle is not garaged. I was thinking that maybe the powder coating would protect the vital parts from rust between the top of skid plate and vital parts. I don't really care what the skid looks like in way of appearance underneath. Or bottom line, does it not really matter? What is the best way to avoid rust underneath? forgive me, my mind is wired a little differently.
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I had custom made plain steel skids on my 04 Gen 1 back in Wisconsin. I used Rustoleum Stops Rust black spray-paint for the entire surface of all skid plates. a box of 6 is usually around 20 bucks. Had the vehicle through 2 harsh winters with salted roads and plenty of rain in the spring....NO ISSUES.
You can save yourself a few bucks and the touch ups are easy if you catch a gouge from a rock.
Otherwise, if the price is right and its only an additional 65-100 bucks, grab em powder coated. I have a PC gun and I use a 1875 Watt heat gun to melt the paint. Turns out small parts great and touch-ups are a breeze, Its just a painstakingly long process without an oven for the larger pieces.
My 2 cents
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I always get unthing in bare steel and paint it myself with self etching primer and some sort of rustoleum paint, saves money and cheap to touch up. My sliders were powder coated and I still painted over it since they were second hand and had rusty gouges in the metal. Now they look brand new.
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I recently pulled all my ShrockWorks plates off to have my 30K service and decided to repaint them all. I had originally spray painted with Rustoleum Hammered black after primer. I didn