Bandit4x4 IA Bushings, LCAs

[RockinX]

Haha, Calmini says it will be another 3-4 weeks until my idler arm arrives.  That is what they told me 3-4 weeks ago.  I hope it gets here before May in case Goldfish (Don) is able to put together a Big Bear xcursion.

You don't need to have an upgrade Idler Arms to do Big Bear. Just a brace if you have one. Even then you are good if you don't have to much play in the stock idler. These trucks are tough

I hope you don't mind I moved this to this tech section.  I have the Calmini lift and have the idler arm brace.  I went back to the mechanic to find out exactly what was wrong with the idler arm that it needed to be replaced.  He said I don't need the idler arm, I just need the bushings.  The front desk guy had got it wrong.  I ordered the heavy duty bushings from bandit4x4.  I had to send them back because they didn't fit.  bandit4x4 responded "The difficulty and frustration is not knowing which version folks have until they can take it apart."  Their website didn't mention about different versions.  He is sending me a new set with a "matched new steel center pin."  Hopefully that will work because, even though the mechanic rotated the bushings, it is worse than ever.

I had a problem with engine tapping on this last run.  The mechanic ended up replacing the timing belt again.  It runs much better now but I still get some tapping when I run it somewhat hard, although not as bad as it was.  And that's just going to and from work, but not all the time and only by the time I get to my destination.  Just before this began happening, they had replaced the timing belt, water pump, etc., all the belts, fluids and just about everything they could think of for my 100k maintenance.  I'm going to ask them to check the timing belt tensioner, although I don't even know if that would have anything to do with it.  

Since I am due for a smog check, I'll get that done first and get the oil changed (free for life) at the dealer.  Maybe they will pick up on something before I go back to the mechanic.  I will have to take another vacation day to get the bushings installed and for them to check out the tapping.  It's already the end of April so I hope to get this resolved soon.  This is the first mechanical problem that I have had with my X other than a new transmission replaced under warranty.

[Bobby B.]

I know you mentioned the tapping before, but do you have an idea as to where it's coming from?  Sometimes you can take a long screwdriver and use it like a stethoscope to try and narrow down the area.  I'm surprised the mechanic couldn't offer a better explanation other than to start flinging parts at it.

Someone on N4W reposted the Calmini IA fix a bit ago; saw it and have meant to send you the link.  While it could be semi-costly (or cheap if you have a machinist friend), it looks like a more permanent solution to those running the Calmini steering setup.

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/112602833/m/90710868

[Ruination Fan]

Someone on N4W reposted the Calmini IA fix a bit ago; saw it and have meant to send you the link.  While it could be semi-costly (or cheap if you have a machinist friend), it looks like a more permanent solution to those running the Calmini steering setup.

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/112602833/m/90710868

I had this done and it was not too bad. I think the bearings were $50(for both) and the machine work was somewhere between $60-75.

[XterracerX]

I am no expert but do you think the tapping is related to the motor mounts? If so, Bobby installed some pretty heavy duty replacement.

http://www.sccxterra.com/smf/index.php/topic,560.0.html

[RockinX]

Someone on N4W reposted the Calmini IA fix a bit ago; saw it and have meant to send you the link.  While it could be semi-costly (or cheap if you have a machinist friend), it looks like a more permanent solution to those running the Calmini steering setup.

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/112602833/m/90710868

Those bushings are nice!  I should have posted about what I was up to because that would have been the way to go.  The bushings I bought cost about $70.  The replacement set will be delivered probably tomorrow so I'll get those installed and plan ahead of time for when they go out again.  It would be nice to have a more permanent solution.  Thanks for the link.

[RockinX]

Thanks for the ideas guys.  Someone else had the same idea as you Fred so that was a good suggestion.  I ended up going in for an oil change at the Toyota dealer where I get free oil changes.  They do a thorough inspection every time I go there and this is what they came up with. 

A/C drive belt torn (missing a piece).  That is probably what the problem is.  Too bad the mechanic replaced the timing belt a second time when it wasn't needed.  It is even more unfortunate that I had to take a vacation day to get it done.

Engine leaking, possible rear main seal.  I had mentioned to the mechanic when I got it back from having the 100k maintenance done that it looked like there was a leak.  He said that the oil had got on the casing from when they filled it.  I looked at it today and it is fresh oil so looks like I need to get that fixed.

K&N filter damaged.  I have a Volant CAI.  I looked at it and I thought that Jason (WolfmanX) had sealed the cover when he installed it and that was the way it was suppose to stay.  There was no seal so I have a feeling they tried to take it off, and somehow damaged the filter. 

I stopped by the mechanic after my trip to the dealer and they said they would take care of the drive belt and the rear seal.  I mentioned the filter but they acted like they didn't know anything about it.  Whatever.  So I'll need to take another vacation day this Friday to get everything fixed and have them install the IA bushings.  I can't wait to get back to my carefree days of not having to worry about problems with my truck.  My wonderful mechanic may not be as wonderful as I thought he was. 

[XterracerX]

I share your pain Marshann... I, too, have some issues with the X but hopefully one of these weekends she'll be as good as new again. Never give up!

[RockinX]

K&N filter damaged.  I have a Volant CAI.  I looked at it and I thought that Jason (WolfmanX) had sealed the cover when he installed it and that was the way it was suppose to stay.  There was no seal so I have a feeling they tried to take it off, and somehow damaged the filter. 

Yes, I'm quoting myself.  LOL!  I opened up the filter box and, ewwww, that filter is nasty.  It looks like blackened charcoal.  I see they sell the cleaning/recharger kit for the Volant so I was wrong thinking that the box is supposed to stay closed.  I ordered a new filter but held off buying the pre-filter mostly because it cost just about the same as the filter.  I spoke to intakesystems.com and they are going to see if they can get me a better price on the pre-filter.  From now on I'll maintain this one as I should have all along.  Sometimes I think I am fairly smart, other times, not so much. 

[RockinX]

Update.  I got the drive belt replaced and no more tapping noise from the engine.  Yippie!  They also replaced the rear main seal, installed new IA bushings bandit4x4 sent me (these included a pin), and sealed up the rear diff, all at no charge since all those items (except the bushings) were from the 100k maintenance they did.  They were going to reindex the tbars but noticed a pretty severe crack in my driver's side lower control arm.  I have had a good run of luck with my X so far, but knew the abuse I put towards it would eventually show up somewhere or another.

[Bobby B.]

It's not uncommon for the LCAs to crack.  Most of us still wheeling IFS has had that happen at some point.

You can have them welded up, or replace them.  They're not cheap, but they do come pre-installed with new lower ball joints and front bushings.  Not too hard to swap; just a bit time consuming and labor intensive.  Air tools and a BFH make it happen without too much cursing.

If you're going to keep the ifs, I'd replace the lowers.  If you think you'll swap to a solid axle, then weld them up and start looking for a dana 44.   

[RockinX]

SAS... drool.  Til then, do you think I can get it safely welded without taking the control arm off and make it to the Big Bear run?  Here's a pic with the red lines showing where the cracks are.  I didn't inspect the entire perimeter of the bracket to see if the cracks go all the way around since it was dark when I got home.

[Bobby B.]

Honestly, I don't know.  That would be something I'd ask the welder.  If they're the real deal and not someone who goes "hey I've got a welder and can fix that," they should be able to give you a solid answer.  You don't want that thing to give way when you're driving because something got missed.  There might be cracks or damage that you can't see.

[Bobby B.]

On the other hand, lots of people have welded these up and been fine.  Adding reinforcement plate is a good idea.

[RockinX]

Yeah, I'm going to have to do some more thinking on this.  I don't think anyone (especially me) would be to pleased if it broke at the Big Bear run.  To put the reinforment plates, I would need to remove/disassemble the LCA.  The mechanic would charge $500 but they don't weld.  I found the welder on auto repair row, which is just a bunch of auto shops on Valley Blvd.  Although he's been around for a while (old) and seems like the real deal, he spoke very little English.  I think I will do some more research to find someone capable to both remove the LCA and do the welding and hopefully get a better price quote -- maybe even a body shop.  

Thanks Bobby for your input.  


 

[Soylent Yellow]

I just had mine welded and it's holding up fine.