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Author Topic: Cranking the torsion bars to raise the front suspension? Any thoughts?  (Read 4142 times)
superslidestyle
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« on: December 27, 2008, 09:07:56 PM »

Cranking the torsion bars to raise the front suspension?  Has anyone done this?  If so, what are the pros and cons?  How will it affect wheel travel ?  etc.
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WQKD768
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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2008, 04:42:10 PM »

Cranking the bars is how you gain lift on a first gen.  You lift the truck at the expense of down travel.

You can only go up a little bit -- 1.5" -- with the stock upper control arms.  Add a pair of rear shackles for around $50 and you have what's called a PML (poor man's lift). 

You can get a 3" of lift by changing the upper control arms and cranking the bars more.
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superslidestyle
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« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2008, 07:11:39 PM »

If I get the upper control arms for the lift, do I also need the diff. lowering kit as well?  I think someone is selling both on the garage sale section.  Also, Pep boys has some univ. adj. shackles to raise the rear going for about $30 or so.  Would these work?
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WQKD768
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« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2008, 09:08:08 PM »

Odds are good that the Pep Boys shackles will not work.  While it's not a complicated thing -- just two hunks of flat steel -- on the X they are not flat.  They have a taper to them.  You can source them from Calmini or Automotive Customizers.

You don't need the diff drop kit, but it can help if you overcrank things.  In extreme cases at higher speeds you will get a vibration.  They are also a PITA to put in; very labor intensive.
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« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2008, 10:14:14 PM »

You don't need the diff drop kit, but it can help if you overcrank things.  In extreme cases at higher speeds you will get a vibration.  They are also a PITA to put in; very labor intensive.

That's why I won't do mine without a Bobby.
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XterracerX
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2008, 07:02:06 PM »

Cranking the bars is how you gain lift on a first gen.  You lift the truck at the expense of down travel.

You can only go up a little bit -- 1.5" -- with the stock upper control arms.  Add a pair of rear shackles for around $50 and you have what's called a PML (poor man's lift). 

You can get a 3" of lift by changing the upper control arms and cranking the bars more.

And don't forget everytime you crank your torsion bars to get a front end alignment... or your tires will start "cupping" or have uneven wear.
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superslidestyle
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« Reply #6 on: January 01, 2009, 04:44:23 PM »

Is it even possible on a 1st gen. X?  Where is the torsion bar that I'm supposed to crank?  The only thing I see on mine that is adjustable is the Steering linkage. What should I be looking for.  I am mechanically inclined but I'm stumped with this.
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WQKD768
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2009, 12:25:19 PM »

It is only possible on the 1st Gen.  Have a look at your front springs, you'll find that you don't have any.  Your front suspension is held up by torsion bars, long thick bars that go from your lower control arms back along the frame to about where the driver sits.  At the back end you should find a threaded bolt that allows you to increase the pressure on the lever that is connected to the aft end of the bar.  Help me here you 1st Gen guys if I've got this wrong.
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Bobby B.
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2009, 05:54:47 PM »

As Dan says, the torsion bar adjusters are at the back of the bars, roughly below the driver's seat.  It's not hard, you can do it if you're comfortable using basic hand tools.  I had a how-to email around somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
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« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2009, 09:41:10 PM »

can you post it on the site
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XterracerX
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« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2009, 04:17:00 AM »

Here ya go...

===================

Adjusting Your Torsion Bars 
Warning!

You should be aware of the possible side effects that can be caused by adjusting your torsion bars.  The author of this article or nissanoffroad.net is in no way suggesting that you should adjust your torsion bars.  This article is  being provided as a informative guide only.  Height increases of approximately 2" can be attained by adjusting the torsion bars but only at  the risk of increased wear on suspension and  drive train components.  This could also void your factory warranty.  The author or nissanoffroad.net assumes no responsibility for damages or injury that may occur if you should decide to attempt the process being described. 
 

Figure 1
Before you start make sure you vehicle is parked on level ground and take a measurement from the bottom of the frame directly behind the front tire to the ground.  Do this on both sides of the vehicle and write the measurements down.


 
In order to safely adjust the bolts you must take most if not all of the weight off the front wheels of your vehicle.  I jacked my truck to the point where the wheels where just about to come off of the ground.  This will relieve most of the stress being placed on the torsion bars but it is also a good idea to lubricate the the bolts and nuts before turning them.  Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant.   


   
Figure 2
Using a 19mm box wrench loosen the lock nut located on the top of the Torsion Bar Adjustment Bolt.  Loosen the lock nut a few turns.  See Figure 2 and 3.  Mark the head of the adjuster bolt head with a felt tipped pen so you can count the turns you put on the bolt.   Use a 19mm wrench or socket turn the adjuster bolt clockwise.  This will tighten the tension on your torsion bars.  The nut below the lock nut is welded to the cross-member so you don't have to worry about holding it with a wrench  Don't forget to count your turns.  Repeat this process on both sides.  I would start with about four turns 
 


Figure 3
Lower your vehicle and drive it backwards or forwards about ten feet to let everything settle into place.  Take a measurement from the same location you measured from earlier and make sure both sides are the same height.  If the increase in height is to your satisfaction tighten the lock nut.  If the height increase is not enough give the adjuster bolt a few additional turns.

==============================

More info here...

http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/index.php?topic=5319.msg62651

Click on "How To Guides"
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« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2009, 10:38:03 AM »

Cool Fred.  I can't find the one I did.
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« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2009, 08:44:06 PM »

Dont forget to mention there is limits to the PML like .50 inches is needed to space the bump stop, and how if you crank to high it make alignments difficult.
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superslidestyle
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« Reply #13 on: January 05, 2009, 02:21:17 PM »

So if crank the nut four (4) times, how much lift is that and what realistic side effects have others had with this.  If I wanted to avoid this altogether, what should I buy to lift the front properly?
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WQKD768
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« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2009, 06:20:54 PM »

I don't remember about how much lift I got with four turns.  If were doing it all over I would measure the front end height at the fender wells, turn the adjusters each 12 times, drop it on the ground, drive around the block, measure for the difference.  Keep cranking until you're good keeping in mind that you want at about 1/2 inch clearance on your bump stop.
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