|
ProZacA
|
 |
« on: November 08, 2011, 04:04:04 PM » |
|
Hey guys!! glad I found sccxterra.com!!! So much less congested then the other site. I have a question... I did the PML on my 01 xterra and was wondering if there were coil lifts or upper a-arm lifts or anything to maybe get it a bit higher without shelling out 800+ dollars for a lift kit? Anyone have any ideas? Also rear sway bar is gone, what is the +/_ of removing the front if there even is one, I never even looked  Thanks for the help guys!!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
superslidestyle
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2011, 11:17:58 AM » |
|
You could get Sway-a-way torsion bars for better offroad handling in the front but slight lift, @$180. Or you can get Calmini tpper control arms for good lift but stock handling, @$400. You actually do need tn keep the front sway bars or truck gets squirlly on the road.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
WQKD768 2000 Xterra XE V6 4WD 2007 Murano SE AWD V6
|
|
|
|
ProZacA
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2011, 11:35:53 AM » |
|
How much of a gain do you get with the Calmini UCA? Is it worth the 400 dollars? I heard with the UCA and 1.5" from the PML it can equal 3.5". Or is it 3" from the new UCA plus the PML 1.5" to get 4.5" over stock? I have buried the front bumper stops and have no gap and still cant get a 33 under there. Any help would be awesome!!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bobby B.
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2011, 02:54:10 PM » |
|
An aftermarket set of control arms allow you to get 3 plus-ish inches of lift total; you gain approx. 1.5 inches with a PML. Cheapest way to get these is to find someone whose SASing their Nissan and buy their parts used.
I found the stiffer torsion bars weren't necessary until I added the bumper and winch. No coil springs on your year of X.
Getting 33's to clear w/an SL and w/o a body lift will require cutting and wheels with mild to stock backspacing. Depending on how you do it, you can gain a lot of usable clearance, but it's not for everyone. It takes a bit of care to not have it look like ass.
Are you off-roading or is this for looks? If off-roading, then you should look at things from a clearance perspective. If it's for looks, chuck a body lift in there, lower the springs a bit so they're not riding the bumpstops and call it good.
I don't run any swaybars, but I don't recommend that for most people. Ditch the rear, leave the front.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I like sammiches. And bacon. Sammiches with bacon. And chips. Lots of chips.
|
|
|
|
ProZacA
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2011, 03:23:27 PM » |
|
Awesome knowledge. I want it for mostly sand and trail running. I am only 2wd with a LSD. I would like to have it useful and since 4wd is out of the question without swapping my truck I will do bumper and winch as well. Now what is SASing? I saw a few links for 2" bodykits DIY for 65 bucks. But I need more then that and to spend $800+ on a 2" lift seems crazy to me... thought there be something cheaper for the same results. I know the shackles are good enough for the back but I dont want to spend 800+ just for the front end.. I am fine with the prerunner style and can always back the tbars out. But i need to get the front end up first..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bobby B.
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2011, 03:59:57 PM » |
|
SAS=solid axle swap. You take an axle out of an old wagoneer or ford (something driver-side drop), cut away the independent front suspension (IFS) and fab in mount for leaf springs or coilovers. Since you're not 4x4, this would not really be an option.
FYI...The rear limited slip isn't very good. Since you're 2x4, you're really going to need something more capable since you're going to be relying on it more than most on the trails or dunes. If you're mechanical and willing to dig into the gears, you can pull the diff and pack the shims, making it more effective. This would be the cheap way if you can pull it off. Otherwise, it's more $ for a locking diff or an axle swap altogether.
The $65 body lift goes back to a guy who figured out how to source the contents of the way more expensive kits available. The more difficult parts to get are the rear most bolts, as they're metric and an odd long size. It's also for a 2" kit if I remember right; the three inch kit requires more effort and stuff to get and install that on the 2" kit you can skip. If you're going to be dune jumping your X, a BL might not be the best thing, but it's your call.
Again, the cheapest way to lift the front is to find someone whose changing out the IFS lift for an SAS lift and buy the stuff used.
I know folks are attached to their trucks and want to make the most of their 2wd, which is fine, but be aware that you're in for more than most if you're going to try and do 4x4 stuff. You will be limited, but be pragmatic about what you can pull off and where you can go and you'll be ok. There's an old saying that 4x4 just enables you to get stuck 50 feet further down the trail than 2wd. Again, depending on how realistic you are when heading out, there's a lot of truth to that. Then again, you may find that you want to swap out for a 4x4 down the road.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 09, 2011, 04:02:08 PM by Bobby B. »
|
Logged
|
I like sammiches. And bacon. Sammiches with bacon. And chips. Lots of chips.
|
|
|
|
ProZacA
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2011, 09:27:11 AM » |
|
 WOW!! Wholly knowledge Batman!! I been thinking about it all night now and really am kicking myself for not getting 4wd now.. My X was just to good of a price to pass up... I would love to swap it for a 4wd but i have put in screens, dvd and not to mention after finance probably owe more the its worth now  so i am stuck... There are alot of X's in the junkyards down by the 905.. I have grabbed many parts from them. Can I just buy the parts needed and switch mine to 4wd?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
slantyshanty
Jr. Member

Karma: 3
Posts: 72
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2011, 11:07:37 AM » |
|
Don't feel bad for not getting 4wd, just beef up what you have. A LOT of trophy trucks and such are 2wd and they drive over serious terrain for days on end. Granted, they have $10000's in their rigs. You could go that way too (total chaos) but you're going to pay for it. Just figure out exactly how much and how hard you will wheel and build around that. A $65 body lift is worth it no matter how you look at it. I've spent more than that on dinner for two... At least once. I do highly recommend getting better tierods. Maybe it's because I broke both of mine at a really crappy time??? Biased maybe??? I don't advise cranking your T-bars up so much that you are riding on your bumpstops. That has to be fun over bumps? Low-pro bumpstops are pretty cheap. They won't answer your problems but will give you a little wiggle room for your PML. Longer upper A arms could probably be found for cheaper than new, just gotta search all the forums you can for someone who is parting out their X (due to wreck or SAS or selling or whatever) you really don't need upgraded T-bars unless you have a big bumper and winch. Lastly, there are ball joint spacers... I don't know ANYONE that would suggest you get them... Then again, I don't know anyone that actually used them? They seem like they would work but I just don't trust things like that. (Or wheel spacers for that matter) I'm no physicist, but the forces that exist in and around your steering and front suspension is waaay stronger than you would think... So why add another fail point/lever/fulcrum/shim/whatever? All this being said, start small offroad, NEVER EVER EVER go alone, and learn from your mistakes. Now I'm going out in the yard to fix my second centerlink.  this one is only a few months old. Wanna know what I learned? You can get another centerlink for $60 online @ rockauto and I wish I could afford aftermarket steering and/or afford to SAS my X and there isn't much space in the centerlink area for mods.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bobby B.
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2011, 12:56:32 PM » |
|
Converting to 4x4 isn't like the old days, unfortunately. It would be a metric buttload of work and not cost effective. Anything can be done, provided you can either do the work or pay for it. If you were to go that route, then it would be easier to start by putting in a solid axle instead of trying to get factory front end stuff in there.
If it were me (and it's not, so take this with a grain of salt), instead of trying to make your X that you like into something it's not, I'd keep that as your enjoyable driver and save up for a second 4x4 to build up and beat on. It can be challenging to build a 4x4 the way you want it when it's a daily driver. If you have it as a "toy," it takes a bunch of the pressure off say, you don't finish fixing that (whatever) Sunday night so you can't get to work Monday morning.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I like sammiches. And bacon. Sammiches with bacon. And chips. Lots of chips.
|
|
|
|
superslidestyle
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2011, 08:43:12 AM » |
|
SlantyShanty has excellemt points but I disagree with him on the torsion bars. I did get them and they kept me from bottoming out on the trail even with a stock bumper. You don't have to crank them too much to have an effective front end and they feel like they should be on the X from the factory. For $180 this is an easy, cheap, and noticeable upgrade.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
WQKD768 2000 Xterra XE V6 4WD 2007 Murano SE AWD V6
|
|
|
|
superslidestyle
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2011, 08:51:49 AM » |
|
Other than that, they both have great valid points. It seems to me like you want to upgrade your X so my suggestion is go on easy trails, fire acces roads and such WITH other vehicles and see firsthand what you need, do research online, talk to people, then make a purchase.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
WQKD768 2000 Xterra XE V6 4WD 2007 Murano SE AWD V6
|
|
|
|